Honey & Dandelion Soap is probably the most popular soap I’ve ever made. It sells out as quickly as I can make it and happens to be a personal favorite, as well.
It’s loaded with fresh dandelions from our fields, raw honey from our bee hives and organic tamanu oil – making it especially useful for those with persistent skin conditions such as eczema & psoriasis.
My original version used two types of palm oil, one white and one red. I revamped the recipe to remove palm products, but wanted to keep a similar color to help ease existing customers to the new version, so added a bit of annatto seed. You can certainly leave that out and have a lighter, creamier colored bar. You could also use yellow Brazilian clay or lemon peel powder for a more yellow tone.
This is a Cold Process Soap recipe.
For a version of this soap (Hot Process) that you can make in your crock pot, click HERE.
For a Melt & Pour version, visit: Dandelion & Honey Melt & Pour Soap.
An overview of basic directions can be found in my Soapmaking 101 article.
For more in-depth information about making soap, be sure to check out my Handmade Natural Soaps eBook Collection.
Raw Honey & Dandelion Soap Recipe
- 14 ounces olive oil (47%) (use at least part dandelion infused olive oil)
- 8 ounces coconut oil (26.5%)
- 3 ounces sunflower oil (10%)
- 2 ounces shea butter (or mango butter) (6.5%)
- 1.5 ounces jojoba oil (5%)
- 1.5 ounces tamanu oil (5%)
- 10 ounces dandelion tea (instructions below)
- 4.07 ounces lye (sodium hydroxide) (6% superfat)
At trace, add: 1/2 ounce raw honey
Gather fresh dandelion flowers and leaves, rinse well and then place in a heat proof pint jar. Fill the jar about half way full with dandelions then pour steaming hot water over top. Let this infuse anywhere from an hour to overnight. Strain and reserve 10 ounces of the resulting dandelion tea for your soap recipe.
Make according to general cold process soap making directions. (See Soap Making 101 for an overview.)
Note: Honey can accelerate trace (speed up the mixing process) and it also makes your soap heat up more than without. If your house is warm, you may only need to cover with a sheet of wax paper. If your house is on the cool side, you may want to cover with a towel or blanket. Peek at the soap every so often and if you spot a crack forming, it means it’s getting too hot and you should move it to a cooler place.
LEARN TO USE HERBS & FLOWERS IN SOAP
Subscribe to Soap Tip Tuesdays and I’ll send you my quick start digital guide to Using Herbs & Flowers In Soap. Each Tuesday, you’ll receive one of my best natural soapmaking tips, recipes, or printables.
- Discover 21 of the top herbs and flowers for making handmade natural soap
- How to make nourshing oil and tea infusions
- Benefits & final color that each herb gives soap
For optional color: Use 3 tsp annatto seed powder for an orange color, as shown, or 1/2 tsp annatto seed powder for yellow.
This batch is almost 3 pounds (32 oz oil + 10 oz liquid + 4 oz lye = 46 ounces total) and is sized to fit the following molds:
- My homemade wooden one – roughly 3 pound mold with inner dimensions: 8″ x 3.5″ x 3.5″. It yields 7 or 8 bars.
- THIS ONE from Bramble Berry
- THIS ONE from Crafter’s Choice
Here’s my article to help you learn how to calculate how big a batch of soap you should make for the size mold you have: