How to Make Herbal Soap Without Handling Lye {+ triple aloe melt & pour recipe}

Learn how to incorporate herbs, flowers, essential oils, and other natural ingredients into melt and pour soap base, no handling of lye required!

two bars of herbal infused soap

Possibly the most often expressed sentiment I hear when it comes to soap making, goes something like:

“I want to make soap, but I’m really scared of the lye!”

That is a completely justified fear and one that I shared for a very long time. It took months of research before I felt comfortable enough with the idea and even then, I had my husband handle it for the first few batches. (Here’s an article I wrote about why we need lye, so you can learn more about why it’s necessary for soapmaking.) If a complete chicken like myself can now handle lye like a pro, then you should be able to do so too, one day!

However, until you’re ready, or if you just aren’t interested into that kind of soap making – I’m here to tell you how to create your own unique herbal soaps, without handling the lye part. It’s so safe, your kids can help you!

Some links in this article are affiliate links. If you click on one and make a purchase, I earn a small commission for sending a customer their way.

Book Cover of Easy Homemade Melt & Pour Soaps

A Helpful Melt & Pour Resource

If you’re interested in combining natural colorants, essential oils, herbs, and flowers with melt and pour (glycerin) soap base – you’re going to love my new print book, Easy Homemade Melt & Pour Soaps – just released today!

It includes 50 fun recipes, design tutorials, and lots of helpful information on infusing soap base with herbs and flowers, and usage rates for natural colorants, essential oils, and other ingredients sourced from nature.

It’s available for order from your favorite local bookstore, Amazon, Barnes & Noble, Books-A-Million, IndieBound, Amazon UK, Amazon CA, Amazon AU, and wherever books are sold.

spraying melt and pour soap with rubbing alcohol

Gathering Supplies

To start making melt and pour soaps, you’ll need the following basics:

If you’re a palm-free soaper, look for SFIC’s Clear or White Palm Free Soap Bases at Soap Goods or Wholesale Supplies Plus. Those who aren’t palm-free may enjoy the somewhat more moisturizing SFIC’s Goat Milk, Cocoa Butter, or Shea Butter soap bases from one of those aforementioned places or Bulk Apothecary or Bramble Berry. (SFIC bases rank high in my eyes because their motto is: “As natural as we can make it” which appeals to my crunchy side, plus their bases feel nice on my skin.)

Other bases to try include Stephenson Donkey Milk, and Wholesale Supplies Plus DF (detergent free) Three Butter soap, and their DF Baby Buttermilk soap base.

a display of melt and pour (glycerin) soaps naturally colored shades of pink and red with varying amounts of madder root powder, rose clay, and rosehip powder

Don’t forget about adding natural colorants and essential oils for scent!

Before adding a natural colorant to soap, most will do best if you dilute them with about 2 to 3 times as much rubbing alcohol first.

Here are a few ideas for natural colorants. The amounts given are for 4 ounces of soap base:

Green:  French green clay (1/2 tsp per 4 oz), chlorella powder (1/8 tsp per 4 oz)
Yellow: lemon peel powder (1/2 tsp per 4 oz), saffron powder (just a tiny pinch)
Orange: tomato powder (1/8 to 1/4 tsp per 4 oz), turmeric (1/8 tsp per 4 oz)
Pink: madder root powder (1/8 to 1/2 tsp per 4 oz), rose clay (1/4 to 1/2 tsp per 4 oz)
Blue: indigo powder or woad powder (1/8 to 1/4 tsp per 4 oz)

I also have several pages of helpful colorant samples in my print book, Easy Homemade Melt & Pour Soaps, as shown in the photo above.

chamomile oatmeal soap favors

Essential oils can be used to add a lovely scent to your creations. (I love the high quality essential oils at Mountain Rose Herbs.)

Use EO Calc to determine the right amount for your projects.

A few to choose from include:

  • Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) – gently skin soothing with a calming scent; suitable for all skin types
  • Bergamot (Citrus bergamia) – an uplifting citrus-like scent with a hint of floral; nice for all skin types, especially dry skin
  • Sweet Orange (Citrus sinensis) – has a bright cheerful citrus scent; balances all skin types, extra helpful for oily skin
  • Cedarwood Himalayan (Cedrus deodara) – has a warm woodsy scent (and used to replace my former recommendation of Cedarwood Atlas (C. atlantica) which I learned is endangered)

If you’d like to add dried flower petals to melt and pour, it’s good to be aware that most will turn brown or discolor. Calendula petals will hold their color, and bachelor buttons (cornflower) will keep their pretty blue when sprinkled on top, but the rest won’t be attractive over time.

2 bars of jewelweed infused melt and pour (glycerin) soap in a handmade green pottery bowl, surrounded by fresh jewelweed plant and flowers

You can also infuse herbs and flowers directly into soap base!

This is my favorite thing to do with melt and pour. It’s a good way to let kids gain hands-on experience making herbal soaps, but they don’t have to handle lye or anything unsafe to do so.

I have an example of this technique shown in the Jewelweed Melt & Pour Soap recipe in my article, Preserving & Using Jewelweed. (Scroll down to #4 on the list.) Plus, of course, more examples and recipes in my Easy Homemade Melt & Pour Soaps book! :)

Other herbs to try infusing include:

  • dandelion flowers & leaves
  • violet leaves
  • calendula
  • chamomile
  • plantain

The Fun Part – Making Soap

There are so many creative ways to use melt and pour soap base; I love that I can get my kids involved too!

Here’s a recipe from my new print book, Easy Homemade Melt & Pour Soaps.

triple aloe melt and pour soap made with a succulent shaped mold

Triple Aloe Bars

Featuring a one-two-three punch of aloe powder, aloe gel and aloe soap base, this soap has a creamy lather that leaves skin soft and smooth. Aloe is prized for its ability to soothe itchy, hot or inflamed skin conditions. Although you could add essential oils, I prefer this soap completely unscented, in keeping with its gentle nature that makes it suitable for sensitive skin.

Yield: five 3.25-ounce (92-g) soaps

Ingredients needed:

Directions to make:

  1. In a heatproof 4-cup (1-L) glass measuring container, combine the aloe vera powder, spirulina, water, aloe soap base and shea butter soap base.
  2. Cover the top loosely with a heatproof saucer.
  3. Place the container in a saucepan containing a few inches (at least 5 cm) of water, forming a makeshift double boiler.
  4. Heat over medium-low heat until the soap is almost melted, 15 to 25 minutes, then lower the heat to low and infuse for an additional 20 minutes.
  5. While the soap heats, stir the arrowroot powder and aloe vera gel together until it’s very smooth, using a spoon to press out any lumps. This combination will add a creamy soothing bubbly feel to the finished soap.
  6. When the soap is fully melted, remove the container from the heat.
  7. Strain the infused soap base through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean container.
  8. Stir in the arrowroot mixture.
  9. Allow the hot soap to cool to around 135°F (57°C), stirring occasionally.
  10. Carefully pour the melted soap base into the molds and spray it with alcohol.
  11. Keep them in the molds until they’re completely cooled and hardened, 4 to 5 hours.
  12. Unmold the soaps and wrap them tightly. Store them in a cool, dry place.

This post – How to Make Herbal Soap Without Handling Lye {melt & pour} – was originally published September, 2013 and updated November, 2019.

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  1. I suppose I’m lucky in the fact that my job is in a laboratory and I’m used to working with acids and whatnot that require using caution and personal protective equipment–it’s true though that as long as you’re careful, methodical and don’t rush things that working with lye can be very safe. This was a good overview for those who are afraid at first to give lye a try. Love your blog, follow you on Facebook and Pinterest and enjoy all your ebooks! Keep up the good work!

    1. Thanks for the kind words! I absolutely agree; lye can be very safe when handled properly. I hope this overview will be a nice gateway into helping others get more comfortable with the idea of making soap in general, and that some will gain the confidence to try cold process soap (my favorite method!) next. :)

          1. I taught my 1st CP soapmaking class last month. It was so much fun. It was for a Naturally Healing class. I showed them how to make castile w/ oatmeal & honey. They all got to take a soap home (in the mold) that they FINALLY got to use a week ago!

  2. You can buy suspension soap base, so your herbs can be all the way through the soap. They sell it at michael’s craft store.

  3. I’ve stayed away from soap making because of the lye. I’m sure I could do it if I read up on it enough and had the right equipment. But with two toddlers in the house, there is no way I could do it while they are awake and when they are asleep I’m usually bone tired and brain dead. LOL Not good for working with potentially dangerous ingredients. So, thank you for sharing this. This is something I can do now and try making soap from scratch when the kids are older.

    1. Hi Jenn! I can completely remember that feeling. :) It’s much easier now that my kids are older. The melt & pour method though is fun for kids to help with, no matter what age. Have fun making your soap!

  4. is it true
    that the lye in the melt & pour base no longer is lye during the process? I heard that it changes. but I dont know when it what stage.

    1. Hi tirrell! Melt & pour base has no active lye left in it, and neither will properly made homemade soap. The oils in the recipe start reacting immediately with the lye to make soap when they combine.

  5. I buy all my soap bases from Bramble Berry and have for 3yrs. I mainly use Shea, Honey, Aloe but I’ve used their Hemp, Clear & White. Never had a “bad” batch, the bases are so incredibly versatile and user friendly I am always amazed with what they accept and continue to come out SOAP: cleansing with abundant lather (some people gotta have that lather!) I add different butters, oils, botanicals, herbs, powders, aromatherapy, premium aroma oils … salts sugars seeds, veggie & fruit powders for coloring … the possibilities are endless.

    Good Post! Thank you!

  6. I used a melt and pour base and I cannot get it to lather. The place I purchased it from recommended I add liquid soap…this did nothing! Then I was told that they have had NO issues with NOT lathering and left it at that. I’m now confused as to what to do…look for, etc. What should I add? Or what is making it not lather?
    Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you

    1. Hi Ann, I’ve never ran into that before. Even if adding liquid soap did help, that sure is a lot of trouble for you to go through for something that’s supposed to be quick & easy! I have to wonder if you got a bad batch or something? I’d try a new source. One place to try is – they have such nice customer service that if you did run into a problem, I think they’d be a lot more helpful than the place you purchased your product from.

    2. It doesn’t lather or it doesn’t bubble up? The lather can be creamy, thick or thin, bubbly or a bit of both and some where in between. Some people think that lather must equal bubbles which is why I ask. Take the plunge and make some soap, yes with lye. I was worried at first too and thought for sure I’d do something wrong. Honestly once I did it I was hooked!! I also find I like HP soaping as it is no longer caustic after it goes through gel phase and is ready to use immediately though I do try to wait a week or two. Try it! You’ll love it! I promise!!

  7. I have been making my own soap, bath products, & candles for over 40 yrs. When I discovered melt & pour, I was in heaven. I get my base at They have a wide variety of bases including an all natural. Over the yrs. I have done a lot of experimenting with this base, I add different oils in small quantities & to make it harder I use palm kernel oil. The sites I use also: Brambleberry, Sweetcakes, Majesticmountainsage. For unusual oils I use FromNaturewithLove, they are expensive though. I do use other sites on occasion also.

    1. I love wholesale supplies plus too-they have a great list of all natural melt and pour soap bases which I use. I love Brambleberry too I just found your blog when I was looking for a natural eye wash-and found your calendula eye wash-making it now-I have some of my own flowers that I froze.

  8. I am so happy I came across your post on fb!! I teach middle school Family and Carreer at a small Christian school. I need to have projects that are not too time consuming, fun, and relatively cost effective since much of the expense is out of pocket. I think my classes would really enjoy making these soaps…..even the boys! ;) Any suggestions/”recipes” for beginners would be greatly appreciated! They could also use these as gifts!

    1. This would be a great project for middle school kids! :) I suggest that you browse through She has sooooo many great ideas! I’ve made a camouflage cold process soap many times before and I’m pretty sure that I’ve seen a melt & pour version out there. (The guys in my family like it, so that might be something your boys would enjoy too!) Something you could do, is just offer up a selection of materials and let them come up with their own unique recipes. That’s what I do with my kids & their cousins. :) But, if you have a few kids that might dump everything in, you can offer up a little formula that they can follow. (i.e. up to 3 teaspoons total of additives such as oatmeal, poppy seeds, dried spices, cosmetic clay, honey, etc.)

  9. I am making homemade soaps for favors to be given away at my Granddaughter’s wedding. I need a no-lye easy way to make this, adding oils and things like lavender buds, ect. I will need enough for about 250 people.

    1. Hi Debi! Sounds like melt & pour might work out well for you. One thing to note about lavender buds (and other herbal additives) is that they will eventually turn brown, so you’ll want to keep that in mind when planning. With such a large amount that you need to make and the importance of the occasion, I suggest that you write to one of the online suppliers and work directly with them to order exactly what you’ll need. I love the idea of homemade soap favors! Congratulations to your granddaughter! :)

  10. This is kind of new to me but really looking into getting started so thanks for much for sharing your info. :-)

  11. I used to be afraid of lye, but then realized that if you aren’t afraid to use bleach then you shouldn’t be afraid of the lye. Now I’m ok with it – I just make sure to use gloves and goggles. (And when my children were little I’d make my soap at naptime.)

    1. Audra isn’t it addicting? I was afraid too but then realized as long as you respect the lye and work carefully then it’s a snap! I take precautions too wearing gloves and glasses and an apron. Nap time is a great time to soap or while they are playing gate off the area you are working in to keep them safe! Happy soaping!

  12. A friend and I make melt and pour soap on a regular basis. I have found that a crock pot works best for melting a large quantity of base. No reheating, or overheating in the microwave. I just ladle it into a measuring cup and add color, herbs or emollients.

  13. Instead of buying soap from the store , make your own low in lye , plain soap. When it cures let the kids melt it down to make their own herbs and such. Then you will know what is in it!

  14. I have a question regarding the melt and pour soap base. I have read a lot about adding herbs but I would like to make it more moisturizing by adding either shea butter, cocoa butter, vitamin E, or maybe a little lanolin. Will that work or will it ruin the soap base? Thank you in advance.

    1. Hi Kathy! I think if you add anything, it’d have to be in low amounts. You could melt up a small experimental batch, separate it, add something different to each section, then test how it affects the soap’s look and feel. You can also buy different bases that already have extra moisturizing properties. If you check with the people at (or wherever you buy your base) they should be able to let you know more of what you can and can’t add to their different formulas. I do find that the clear base (like I used in this article) leaves my skin feeling a wee bit dry, so I think it’s a great idea to experiment with adding moisturizing ingredients!

  15. Kathy,

    Be careful when adding additional oils to M&P bases. The additional oils can throw the mixture out of balance and either run the batch or make the bars super soft. I personally stay away from M&P bases; as they contain some type of alcohol and can be drying on the skin. Albeit, better than commercial soaps, but nowhere even close to a good handmade CP soap. You can find good bases out there, just look and understand the ingredients. Don’t be fooled by misleading terms. Sorbitol is an alcohol used to lower the soap’s melting point. All soap is glycerine soap; as glycerine is a byproduct of the soap making process. What they don’t tell you is that in M&P soap they have to add additional glycerine to counteract the drying properties of the alcohol used. Other than that, it’s a good project.

    1. Thanks for the information Daniel! I have to admit, I’m a cold-process junkie so am not as familiar with the wide spectrum of things you can & can’t do with melt & pour.

  16. As am I Jan! In fact, I am strictly a “From-Scratch” soap maker. I have seen quite a few people n my area trying to sell M&P soap as anything but… I look at lye much the same as I do with electricity. As long as you maintain a healthy respect for lye while you are working with it (Proper safety) it is rather safe. However, the moment you get complacent is when it get dangerous.

  17. Thx for sharing ly-free soap tips. You can buy sustainable Palm oil by Spectrum. I saw it at Whole Foods Market and Sprouts Market. I won’t buy any other palm oil, knowing what’s happening the the forest & orangutans.

  18. Hi, I love thus idea but am allergic to soy. All of the soap bases I’ve seen contain soy protein do you know of any that don’t? Thanks

  19. Many Thanks! I feel that you wrote this just for me :-) It answered my “soap base” question and gave me a lot of ideas on how to add beauty (scent & sight).

  20. Can you use almond milk instead of coconut milk? I’m allergic to coconut.

    Or something other than the coconut milk for the base?

    1. Hi Becky, There is no milk mentioned in this post, so I’m not quite sure how to answer that. I think pretty much all melt and pour soap bases have coconut oil in them though. It’s hard to avoid coconut. (Though I’m working on a post about making soap from scratch without it!)

  21. Hi Jan, thank you for this article. I am a beginner and will definitely try this. One question; I have seen when some people make soap from scratch they mention having to wait six weeks before using the soap, even six months (not sure which one is better). But in this case, do we have to wait until using the bar soaps? Or can we use them right away if it’s made from soap base? Thanks so much again!!!

    1. Hi Inny! If you’re using a ready made soap base, then you can use the soap right away. The company that made it, has already handled the lye and waiting part, so you don’t have to worry about it. :) When making soap completely from scratch, you should wait four to six weeks before using. If you have a really high olive oil soap, it usually benefits from waiting longer, in order to get a harder, longer lasting bar. You can still use it sooner though.

  22. Dear Ms. Jan & Fellow Readers,

    I am extremely interested in making my own soap—I saw an intriguing process using a crock pot a while back & can’t wait to try it. The name of your post came up during a search & brought me here, as I know it is IMPOSSIBLE to make soap WITHOUT lye. PERIOD. The difference comes in whether YOU handle the lye or you PAY SOMEONE ELSE to handle the lye for you. I am going to apologize in advance as I think this is going to veer a tad off topic, but I am new to the site & am unaware of the proper place to post this, so here it goes….
    1. I see people using all sorts of expensive additives like poppy, chia, or flax seeds, etc. for exfoliation purposes. What about used coffee grounds? Friends, family, restaurants, or maybe even your church, I would hazard a guess one collection from any listed source would be more than enough for a batch as a trial for those non-coffee drinkers out there.

    If you collect but are not ready to make a batch of soap, spread the coffee grounds on a lipped baking sheet in a thin layer & bake for anywhere from 15-30 minutes—depends on how thick layer is—or until dried thoroughly with NO moisture to mold them. I did this when pre-heating the oven, or stick it in when baking/cooking or after done & use the residual heat as the oven cools down. Place dry grounds in a covered container until ready to use. By the way, coffee grounds are essential in making homemade geode type crafts as well.
    2. Kirk’s Castile CoCo Original soap—also comes in unscented—is a standalone with NO NEED to alter it in ANY way!! It is the most wonderful soap as it is unadulterated. Can be used on face, body, hair & you can even brush your teeth with it. Yes, you are not seeing things, I actually said BRUSH TEETH. It has helped my young child that has gone through puberty at an early age {genes, not cheap hormone laden food} get a handle on cystic like acne {along with 16 oz witch hazel & 5 uncoated aspirin added to it & used as a toner}. I LOVE LOVE LOVE Kirk’s. It brought back memories of the clean I felt as a kid & had not really experienced in many years. Rich lather in extremely hard water, rinses clean off skin with no film. A bit of soap scum look, but easy to clean off tub & shower.
    3. Has anyone made soap in a crock pot? Would a crock pot liner or turkey roasting bag work to speed clean-up & make it an easier pour into molds?
    4. This site has a 13 step procedure with pictures on making your own lye for soap making. I saw on a soap making forum that others were using Roebic brand 100% lye crystals {in other words, pure lye} but when I went to Lowe’s {plumbing department} to get it, it was $17 for 2 lbs. It started a fight with my husband over the “expensive” homemade soap rather than buying the pre-made store stuff. We are going to try this. I will eventually bye lye & then see which makes the better soap product in the end.
    5. I have a few questions in regards to using the lye water resulting from the process in #3. It will be winter soon here in the mountains, so while I would love to be able to evaporate off the liquid, not sure I will be able to.
    a. Does anyone have any idea how to figure the amount of lye is in solution?
    b. Can I just use this lye solution in place of re-hydrating lye crystals & NOT add water called for in the lye calculators?
    c. If I use the solution as is, would I measure the lye water in a liquid measure cup or still weigh it like the other ingredients for soap making?
    d. If I use it as is, would I need to add salt for hard bars?
    e. Would long cure times for soap batches using this lye water be reasonable to expect because of high moisture content?
    f. I think someplace while researching this homemade lye process I saw that lime could be added as a catalyst (?) possibly. Does anyone know if this is correct & the amount needed if it is?

    Thank you for your patience with me & my lengthy post. I am very happy that I have run across your site & will be eagerly devouring all aspects of it.

    1. Thanks for the site links and information Ex Army Girl! Yes, coffee grounds are great in soap (I have a coffee and cream recipe coming to the blog this month or next.) :)
      Thanks for the info too on Kirk’s Castile soap – I’ll have to check it out!
      Re: Soap in a crockpot with a liner/roasting bag – it’s not really that hard to clean out once it has cooked. You can take a spoon and scrape out the residue and form it into a ball and you have ready to use soap. No waste! Any little bit leftover will come out if you soak your crockpot for a little while.
      I think my lye is around $11 or $12 for 2 lbs. It probably varies by region. You can get some on Amazon too (free shipping!) Two pounds of lye makes quite a bit of soap! You can probably get storebought soap cheaper. Homemade is just a world of difference on your skin and it’s nice knowing exactly what you put in it. There’s also the “I made this all by myself!” cool factor. :)
      I’m afraid I have no good advice about homemade lye solutions. You’d have to establish some sort of standardized alkalinity in order to get the results you want, but that is way beyond anything I’ve dealt with! Hopefully someone knowledgeable will see this and chime in!

  23. Wouldn’t you know that right after I posted to your blog, I found another that answered some of my questions? Sounds about right…anyway I thought that you & your readers/followers might enjoy this site too, especially since I read that somebody referred to not having commercially available resources.

    Wealth of information on this site as well as on your site. I hope others will learn as much from both of you as I have today. Thanks again!! {;0}

  24. Do lye or melt and soap would harm skin I am saying beacuase I always perferd herbal cosmetics and cream to stay away from chemical substances. I am an beginner to just confrom do lye consisting soap would harm skin and environment.

  25. I am recuperating from being rather ill this last number of months and am getting much better. I can tell because I am just now getting itchy fingers to start doing some hobbies again. So.finding your web site was a great joy!Thanks.

    1. Hi Lynn, I’m so sorry that you’ve been ill, but am happy to know that you’re feeling better! I’m glad that you enjoyed the web site and hope you continue to grow stronger each day!

  26. Jan ~ do you work with the white cream textured soaps? I like how they make it look marble like. Wondering if you had a how too on this?

  27. Hi Jan!! I stumbled on your website and like others, I’m fearful of lye. So I’m going to try this myself. and thanks for referring Berry store. I’ll give the a try Thanks!!

    1. Hi Amanda, Both are great choices! The only main difference I can think of is in what types of items they carry, probably vary. If you’re happy with what you’ve been getting from them, then sounds like a great place to shop!

  28. I’m completely new to this but want to give it a try and go all natural with my skin care products.
    What is the purpose of spritzing alcohol on the finished product? Can this step be left out?
    Where do you get all of your basic ingredients (aloe Vera, Shea butter etc.)?
    Thanks in advance & for sharing your experience!

    1. Hi Petra! The alcohol helps pop or dissolve any little bubbles on the surface of the soap. If you don’t mind the little air bubbles, you can definitely leave out the alcohol spritzing!
      I get a lot of the basic ingredients from places like Mountain Rose Herbs, Bramble Berry, Wholesale Supplies Plus, Soap Goods, Essentials by Catalina, and Amazon.
      I have a melt and pour soap section in my Amazon shop too with some stuff I frequently use for Melt & Pour that I buy from there: :)

  29. Hello, I’m trying to find the correct aloe vera gel. Could that stop be skipped or do we absolutely need the gel ?

    1. Hi Marcayla! I think you could try leaving the aloe out – it can be aloe gel or aloe liquid. In that case, you could also choose to leave out the arrowroot powder, or add it by itself to the hot melted soap (make sure it’s lump free by perhaps sifting or rubbing through a sieve, so it’s easier to blend in.) The recipe should be pretty adaptable, so I believe those changes could work! :)

  30. Hi Jan! Thank for the wonderful recipes :) I have a question about packaging though – i have been making melt and pour soaps but since i don’t wrap them in plastic, they get some moisture on them. I plan to make and sell soaps now but i cannot figure out a way to keep the moisture away without using plastic. My packagings needs to be plastic free / eco friendly …. do you have any suggestions for me ? Thanks a lot!

  31. My soap base has been seizing esp when I use clear bases. I never seem to get the microwave right in terms of time and temp level. I’ve ruined a lot of bases and money :( so frustrating. what do you do to ruined bases? can I save them?

    1. Hi Carmela! I’m sorry to hear that – I know that’s frustrating! Unfortunately, it’s hard to save overheated bases. I read somewhere once that you could gently melt it back to a liquid and pour it into a mold; it will still have the smell and might be clumpy in spots, but it’s still usable. (I haven’t tried that myself though.) The problem could be your microwave (perhaps it runs on the hot side, so you could try 50% power or defrost mode instead, and only heat for short bursts, then stir, then another short burst, then stir, etc.), or it could be the brand of soap base. I’ve ran across a few that had bad reviews as far as being prone to seizing up. If the reviews are good for the product, then perhaps it’s just a bad batch; I’ve also heard of that occasionally happening even with good suppliers. They’ll often replace the batch for you if that’s the case. I hope the future batches are better behaved for you! <3

  32. I highly recommend using ingredients from I do not use lye, but there are chemical free products you can find that are similar.

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