Today, I’m sharing a recipe from my Handmade Natural Soaps Ebook Collection.
It’s a lovely, old-fashioned bar that’s simply scented with lavender essential oil and naturally colored with purple Brazilian clay. If you’d like a whiter soap, instead of the pale purple tint shown, just leave out the purple clay called for in the recipe.
Oils, water and lye should be measured by weight. You need an accurate scale to make soap.
- 14 oz (397 g) olive oil (50%)
- 8 oz (227 g) coconut oil (28%)
- 3 oz (85 g) almond oil (11%)
- 3 oz (85 g) sunflower oil (11%)
- 3.95 oz (112 g) lye
- 9 oz (255 g) distilled water
- 2 tsp purple clay (stir in hot lye solution)
- 1.23 oz (35 g) lavender essential oil
If you’ve never made soap before, be sure to thoroughly research the process and precautions before proceeding.
LEARN TO USE HERBS & FLOWERS IN SOAP
Subscribe to Soap Tip Tuesdays and I’ll send you my quick start digital guide to Using Herbs & Flowers In Soap. Each Tuesday, you’ll receive one of my best natural soapmaking tips, recipes, or printables.
- Discover 21 of the top herbs and flowers for making handmade natural soap
- How to make nourshing oil and tea infusions
- Benefits & final color that each herb gives soap
Directions to Make:
Wearing protective gloves and eyewear, carefully stir the lye (sodium hydroxide) into the distilled until dissolved. Work in an area with good ventilation and be careful not to breathe in the fumes.
Stir in the purple clay, if using for color. Set the lye solution aside to cool for about 30 or 40 minutes or until the temperature drops to around 100 to 110°F (38 to 43°C).
Gently heat the coconut oil until melted then combine with the other oils.
Pour the cooled lye solution into the warmed oils. Using a combination of hand stirring and an immersion blender, also called a stick blender, stir the soap batter until it thickens and reaches a light trace. Trace is when the soap has thickened enough so when you drizzle a small amount of the batter across the surface, it will leave a fleeting, but visible imprint or “trace” before sinking back in.
Stir in the essential oil(s) for scent. Pour the soap batter into your soap mold. Cover lightly with wax or freezer paper, then a towel or light blanket. Peek at the soap every so often; if it starts developing a crack, uncover and move to a cooler location.
Keep the soap in the mold for 1 to 2 days, or until it’s easy to remove, then slice it into bars when it’s firm enough not to stick to your cutting tool. Cure on coated cooling racks or sheets of wax paper for about 4 weeks before using.
The soap is safe to touch 48 hours after making it but it needs the extra time to allow the excess moisture to evaporate out.