Homemade Lavender Soap

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homemade lavender soap recipe (from scratch)

Today, I’m sharing a recipe from my newest ebook: Natural Soap Making: Cold Process Basics & Recipes.

It’s a lovely, old-fashioned bar that’s simply scented with lavender essential oil and naturally colored with purple Brazilian clay. (You can buy purple clay HERE at Bramble Berry.) If you’d like a whiter soap, instead of the pale purple tint shown, just leave out the purple clay called for in the recipe.

Instead of using plain water in this recipe, I make a tea from fresh or dried lavender flowers. (If this isn’t possible for you, it’s fine to use plain distilled water instead.)

To make this, place a generous pinch or two of fresh or dried lavender buds in a heat proof mason jar. Pour about ten ounces of simmering hot water over them. Cover with a saucer and let steep until room temperature or cooler before using in the recipe. It might turn light brown, but as long as you don’t let it get too dark, it won’t affect the final color of your soap.

This post and blog contain affiliate links to Bramble Berry, Mountain Rose Herbs or Amazon. If you click on one and make a purchase, I earn a small commission for sending a customer their way. This costs you nothing extra, but does help to support my site and lets me keep doing what I do. Thank you! :)


natural color and scent for homemade lavender soap recipe

Homemade Lavender Soap:

Liquid & Lye Portion:

  • 4.01 ounces lye (6% superfat)
  • 9 ounces lavender tea (or distilled water)

Wearing proper safety gear (gloves, goggles, long sleeves), carefully measure, pour, and stir the lye (sodium hydroxide) into the cooled lavender tea. I work in my kitchen sink, to contain any spills. Let this cool to around 90 to 115 degrees Fahrenheit.

Oil Portion (29 ounces total):

Combine the oils in a stainless steel or enamel pot (never aluminum!) and gently heat to a similar temperature as the lye. (It’s okay to have a difference up to about ten to twenty degrees.) If you don’t have meadowfoam or apricot kernel oil handy, see the substitution idea below.

Pour the lye mixture into the oil mixture. Using a stick (immersion) blender, blend the soap batter about thirty seconds at a time. Stop and stir by hand a few seconds, then blend again. Repeat this until you’re reached trace.

When a soap mixture has reached “trace”, that means that is has thickened enough to hold an outline (or “tracing”) when you drizzle soap batter across the surface of itself.

At light trace, stir in:

You can find lavender essential oil and purple Brazilian clay at BrambleBerry.com.

Pour into molds. For the bar shown, I used the silicone rectangular bar mold from HERE. This batch fills up about 9 of the 12 cavities. You can also use a column mold like THIS ONE. If you don’t have access to molds, line a glass bread pan with parchment paper and use that instead. Cover and let stay in the mold for a day or two before removing. Cold process soap should be cured in the open air for four to six weeks before use. (Though I usually start testing on myself at three weeks.)

These directions are briefly summarized. For more thorough cold process soap making directions, see my post, Soap Making 101, or my ebook, Natural Soap Making: Cold Process Basics & Recipes.


lavender buds on soap


  • For a pretty topping, you can sprinkle lavender buds on top of your soap right after pouring into the mold. They will fade over time though. It’s not recommended to mix lavender buds in the soap batter itself because they’ll turn a brownish-black shade.
  • Meadowfoam & Apricot Kernel Oil are added for their moisturizing, skin conditioning qualities. Meadowfoam oil also lends a silky lather and extends shelf life of soaps. If you don’t have those oils on hand, you can substitute with more olive oil, creating a simplified soap recipe. The new amounts would be: 21 ounces olive oil, 8 ounces coconut oil, 4.06 ounces of lye, and the same measurements of liquid, clay, and fragrance.

If you enjoy making soap, let’s keep in touch! For my best herbal projects, recipes, and soap making ideas delivered straight to your inbox each month, sign up for my newsletter HERE. (No spam ever, and you can unsubscribe at any time.)

You may also like:

Hollyhock Soap | Garden Mint Soap | Rosa Rugosa Soap

Hollyhock Flower Soap Recipe   Garden Mint Soap Cold Process Soap Recipe (palm free)   Rosa Rugosa Handmade Soap from Roses


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48 Responses to Homemade Lavender Soap

  1. anne-marie says:

    We never tire of Lavender around here. Your soaps turned out gorgeous of course =)

    • Jan says:

      Thanks Anne-Marie! Bramble Berry’s Hungarian Lavender essential oil smells divine in this soap! :)

    • Jennifer says:

      Hello! Is there anything that can be substituted for the 15oz of olive oil in your lavender soap recipe? Also will I be able to use the pans/blender again after I use them with the lye for soap making (even if I wash them)?


      • Jennifer says:

        Also I just finished my first batch, it turned out brown, not purple…any chance it will turn purple as it cures?

        • Jan says:

          Hi Jennifer! Clay does have a dull, browner tinge at first and then as it goes through gel phase after pouring into the mold, will look very dark at times. Once you slice it and let it start curing though, it should lighten up, especially if you used the brand of clay and amount listed in the recipe. One factor though, that can tint your soap differently, is if your olive oil is a very strong green shade. That color might come through the soap making process and muddy up the final shade of the bar.

      • Jan says:

        Hi Jennifer! You may be able to substitute with rice bran oil or perhaps canola oil. I use separate pans & stick blender for soap making, but I have seen a few soapers say they use their regular dishes. My thought is that anything the soap batter gets on is probably fine (like the pan and stick blender), since after sitting for 24 hours, that soap batter usually isn’t caustic any more and can be washed off like the soap that it is. For the container used to measure out dry lye and the one used to mix the lye and water together – I would use something disposable or for soap-making-only for that, since it would be hard to wash off and I’d be very concerned about any traces coming in contact with food or drink.

  2. Alex says:

    Hi Jan, I notice you have decorated the top of your soap here with lavender buds. Now I’ve always been advised by my soap making buddies that any dried floral decorations added to the top of cold process soap turns brown very quickly, even if added after a few days of curing, so I have never bothered. I was just wondering what your experience of this was.

    • Jan says:

      Hi Alex, Your buddies are right! Most floral decorations on top of cold process soap will eventually fade or turn brown. I’m not so sure that it’s always a quick process though. Some items, like calendula will look nice much longer than others. I’ve also successfully used dried rose buds (whole ones, since petals turn brown much faster), bachelor buttons & chamomile flowers. I put up a picture of what the lavender buds looked like in the middle of May compared to how they look today, about twenty minutes ago, so you can get an idea of how they age. It’s right here: http://thenerdyfarmwife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/lavender-buds-over-time.jpg They look like they may be fading a smidge in spots, but still purple! (However, I suspect by six months there will be some definite fading and browning going on.) Having said all of that, personally I like soap without any stuff on top. It’s much easier to use! Some people I’m related to do like the pretties though, and since I make soap primarily for gifting, I do still add toppings here and there. :)

      • Alex says:

        Thank you for your reply. The photo two months on really doesn’t look any different. I think I might experiment myself on one or two. I agree with you that from a practical point of view the bits on top are just annoying for the first few uses but they do look pretty to give as gifts :-)

  3. Michelle says:


    I’m still new-ish to soapmaking, your website has been incredibly helpful and inspirational. :)

    For this recipe…
    What could you use instead of meadowfoam oil?
    and, I don’t have brazillian purple clay, but do have a bag of alkanet root coming to me soon. Do you have any tips for how to alkanet root to get a nice purple?
    And finally, does the clay add a lot to the feel of the soap? if so, would it worth adding another clay such as kaolin? Again, i’ll be using alkanet root for a purple colour.

    Thanks for any help you can give!

    • Jan says:

      Hi Michelle, I’m so glad that the site has been helpful! :)

      In a recipe, meadowfoam oil lengthens shelf life, conditions skin and gives a creamy lather, so you want to substitute something similar. It’s also a “soft oil” that doesn’t make your bar hard, so you can substitute it with another “soft” oil such as sunflower or avocado oil. Those don’t really contribute to lather though, so you might want to add a smidge of castor oil as well, if you have any on hand. (Castor oil also boosts lather.)

      Alkanet root makes a nice purple too. If you look on the sidebar on the right side of my blog, on the cover of my soap making ebook, you’ll see a stack of colored soaps. The sixth one down is colored with alkanet root(compared to the 9th one down which is colored with purple clay) For that purple shown I used 1/4 teaspoon alkanet root in a batch that had probably 28 to 30 ounces of oil in it. (So same size as this one.) Alkanet has a grayer tone to it in fresh soap and when you first make and pour it, you’ll think you made a mistake because it’s gray! But, it will purple out for you as it cures. (Let it go through gel phase, don’t try to cool it or anything, so the color develops nicely.) It’s not as pure purple toned as the clay, but it works! It will get speckled looking if you don’t mix it in very well with a little bit of oil before adding to your soap. You can infuse some oil with it for several days beforehand to get an even smoother look.

      I personally love soaps with clay, but I know another soap maker who dislikes the texture. Of all of the bars I give to family and friends, I get the most say their favorites are made with some type of clay. It seems to really be a personal preference thing!

      Good luck on your soap making!

  4. Anna says:

    Hi Jan! Approximately how many pounds does this recipe make? I’m using an adjustable wooden 1-5lb mold.

    Thank you!

    • Jan says:

      Hi Anna!
      To figure up approximately how many pounds of soap a recipe will make, you can add up the amount of oils + amount of liquid + amount of lye.
      So, this recipe would be:
      29 + 9 + 4 ounces = 42 ounces or 2.6 pounds
      (double check my math though – it’s not my strong point!) :)

  5. Hina Shah says:

    Do you handle any classes for live demonstration? I want to learn this but am not confident enough without seeing it.
    Where do I get all the materials from and how long is the process? Looking forward for your reply via email.


    • Jan says:

      Hi Hina! I don’t teach live classes, but if you check around at a few local places, you might be able to find someone who does. If you’re in the U.S., you could check with your: library, health store, craft store, or perhaps a county extension agent. You might be able to connect with someone local on a soap making forum as well. Have you seen the video tutorials from SoapQueen.com? https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAADF6209996265D2 The SoapQueen.com site also has tons of information for beginners. Good luck and happy soap making!

  6. Tracy says:

    I’m just wondering if I cooked tap water would that be ok to use in soap making or would it still have an adverse reaction to the lye?

  7. Marc says:

    Hi! I have a question, so how much is a one bar of soap? I need to make about 50 bars and each of the bars has to be 4 oz or 4.5 oz for my project and I was wondering if you could help! Thanks!

    • Jan says:

      Hi Marc! I happened to still have the exact bar that I used to take the photo for this post so I weighed it. It’s now 3.7 ounces (they start out heavier, but as water evaporates from it over cure time, they grow lighter.) It was probably close to 4 ounces when freshly made. That was made using a cavity mold though. If you use a loaf mold and cut it in about 1 1/4″ slices, they should be around 4.5 ounces, when fully cured. This site has a plan for a mold that will make around 10 to 12 four ounce bars. (Just cut them thicker to get 4.5 oz.) http://soapdelinews.com/2013/06/how-to-make-a-soap-mold-for-cold-process-soap.html
      Good luck with your project!

  8. Janeen says:

    Hello Jan, I love your site and have all your books! You are a great inspiration. I was wondering if infusing the olive oil with lavender would be beneficial at all with recipe like you did with your calendula soap?

    • Jan says:

      Hi Janeen, I’m happy that you like the site and thank you for the kind words! Yes, infusing the oil with lavender would be a lovely idea and a great addition to this recipe. I love to use herbal infused oils in soap, whenever I have them on hand.

  9. JR says:

    Hey, how long does this soap take to cure? Thanks

  10. Juliet says:

    HI Jan, I’m new at this!
    I have a 1 pint (568ml) milk cardboard container that I would like to use to make a small batch of soap. How do work out out quantities for it?
    Also, I have red organic Palm oil which comes out very yellow. How do I tone the down the colour? I have to use, store cupboard ingredients of olive/sunflower/rape and coconut oils. Thanks

    • Jan says:

      Hi Juliet! This site has an excellent write-up on how to calculate how much soap you’ll need to fill a mold: http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/suppliers/tp/Calculating-The-Size-Amount-Of-Soap-To-Fill-A-Soap-Mold.htm It does involve a little math though. (Not always my strong point, so double check any numbers I give below!) You need to calculate the volume (length x width x height). Multiply the number you get by .40 and that will tell you how many ounces of oils you need in a recipe to fill up that container.

      I don’t have one handy to check exact size, but say your container is 3 inches x 3 inches x 6 inches. You would multiply 3x3x6 and get 54. Multiply that number by .40 and get 21.6. So, your recipe would basically need around 21.6 ounces of oil (just the oil, don’t count liquids or lye at this point) total to fill up this container. Since this lavender soap recipe has 29 ounces total, it will be too much. You could divide the recipe in half and just not fill the carton up all the way or you can run it through a lye calculator to reduce it. I use this one: https://www.thesage.com/calcs/LyeCalc.html Put the numbers from the recipe in and calculate as normal. Then scroll down to the bottom of the next page that pops up with the results and you’ll see “Resize Recipe” and “29” will already be plugged into the box. Erase “29” and put in “21.6” and press the button that says “resize recipe” and it will give you new numbers (rounded for simplicity):
      2.2 oz apricot kernel oil
      6 oz coconut oil
      2.2 oz meadowfoam oil
      11 oz olive oil
      2.99 oz lye
      6.5 oz liquid

      As far as organic red palm oil, I accidentally ordered a large bucket of it many years ago. I just used some of it up by using small amounts of it in recipes that I wanted to turn out yellow or orange. An example is this recipe: http://thenerdyfarmwife.com/carrot-honey-soap-recipe/ and another is the Sunflower Soap seen if you scroll through this post: http://thenerdyfarmwife.com/how-to-create-custom-soaps-from-a-single-recipe/ I think I still have some of that palm oil down in my basement! It was quite tricky to work into soaps in some cases.

      I hope this helped and that you have lots of fun making soaps!

  11. Shalom says:

    Can I use almond oil instead of olive oil?

    • Jan says:

      Hi Shalom! Olive oil has a different makeup than almond oil, so it won’t act the same in soap. If you use more than 5 to 10% of almond oil in your soap recipe, it will tend to make your bar too soft. One good substitute for olive oil is rice bran oil, if you have that available. You might also be able to use half canola oil and half sunflower oil instead of the olive oil (though I’m not positive since I haven’t tried that out.)

  12. Tammie mooney says:

    Hi Jan, thank you for the recipe. I was hoping to make this as hot process soap is there anything different I should do? Thank you for all your lovely recipes. You’re amazing😀.

    • Hi Tammie, Thank you so much for your kind words! :)
      Everything should be just the same except instead of adding the lavender essential oil, reserved oil and clay at trace, go ahead and put that oil back with the soap making oils. Take the essential oil and clay and stir it together with an extra 2 tablespoons of water. Make your soap exactly the same, bring to trace, cook for one hour and then stir in that EO/Clay/Water mixture.
      Also, I have a bit of a water discount with this recipe for cold process so it will set up faster in the mold, so if you make it hot process, you might want to increase the initial amount of water by maybe 1/2 an ounce. I think that would work nicely! :)

  13. Lucy says:

    Printed the Lavender recipe and fell in love with it. Have never purchased an e-book, but I am considering it. Have never posted either, not sure if I am doing it correctly. Will there ever be a chance you will make this book into a paperback? I am nervous about buying it!

    • Hi Lucy, I’m so happy that you liked the Lavender Soap recipe! You are indeed posting your comments correctly! I have to keep comments moderated to control spam, but try to check them every day or two, to answer them as I can. I don’t know if I’ll make the soap making ebook into a paperback anytime soon, since it would have to be reformatted, and that’s a good bit of work. It’s always a possibility though! I do however, have a new book for print coming out in Spring, 2016! It will have a chapter on soap making and will also be about other things you can make from your garden flowers and herbs such as lotions, creams, bath scrubs, home remedies and so forth. You’ll be able to buy that one from your bookstore or online book sellers like Amazon and Barnes & Noble. I’ll be sure to share more details as they become available! :)

  14. Lucy says:

    Thanks You! for getting back with me so quickly. Can not wait for your book. Please let us all know when it’s finally out. I think I am going to take the plung and purchase my first ever e-book. Because I keep finding myself looking at your web site. And I do purchase alot from BB so I will try to do that form your site. Thanks you for your wounderful recipies. Have a question. How would I make your lavender reciped bigger? I want to put it in the 5 lb. wooden mold my husband made me.

  15. Lucy says:

    Just read your reply to Juliet. Sorry!

  16. Athena says:

    I love your soap making ebook and I cannot wait to try out a few recipes.
    I am brand new to soap making.
    I was just wondering if I need to buy PH strips to test my soaps?
    Thank you!! :)

    • Hi Athena! I personally don’t use pH strips to test my soaps since I’ve heard that they’re not overly accurate. Some soap makers are comfortable doing the zap test (touch a finished bar on your tongue and if it ‘zaps’ you, then it’s still lye heavy), while others like checking with pH strips. I just make sure that my recipe is balanced and if the bar looks like it did well when making (no crumbly chunks of lye or big separations or anything worrisome), then it’s virtually always fine to use. I test a bar of every recipe I make on myself first, to make sure, before gifting or selling. I hope you have lots of fun making soap & I’m happy that you like the ebook! :)

  17. Annie R says:

    Hi Jan, Have you ever made this into 5 pounds? My husband made a mold similar to your 5lb wooden mold in the other recipes. I’m really scared to attempt enlarging this recipe by myself. I really want to make it this week so it will be nice and cured for the holidays. Thank you

    • Hi Annie R! This recipe is
      29 oz oil + 9 oz liquid + 4 oz lye = 42 ounces (or a little over 2 1/2 lbs)
      If you double the oils exactly (so 30 oz olive, 16 oz coconut, 6 meadowfoam, 6 apricot kernel) and run it through a lye calculator it becomes:
      58 oz oil + 18 oz liquid + 8.03 oz lye = 84.03 oz (or 5.25 pounds)
      You could do it that way and if you have a tiny bit leftover, pour it into a milk carton or yogurt container or something.

      For a more precise way, you could go to the Bramble Berry calculator here:
      and choose that you are making solid soap then choose the option – by percentage.
      Go in and put in 52% olive, 28% olive oil and 10% each of meadowfoam and apricot kernel.
      Then choose a superfat of 5%. (Their 5% superfat works out to be around the 6% I used from the Majestic Mountain Sage site, so it will put you in the same ballpark.)
      and choose an oil weight of 54 oils (I fiddled with the numbers a bit to come up with that number.)
      It will tell you that you need:
      5.4 oz apricot kernel oil
      15.12 oz coconut oil
      5.4 oz meadowfoam oil
      28.08 oz olive oil
      7.44 oz lye
      17.82 oz liquid
      and that should give you a batch totaling 79.26 oz or ALMOST 5 lbs.

      Either of those recipes will work! Also, I’ve gotten now where I put shea or unscented cocoa butter instead of meadowfoam in that recipe and really like how it adds a bit more firmness.
      If you want to do that too, the first example where the lye is 8.03 oz would just be a bit higher at 8.07 oz lye. (If using shea or deodorized cocoa butter instead of meadowfoam.)

      I hope that helps. I’m not the greatest math whiz, so be sure to double check my numbers! :)

  18. Annie R says:

    Wow those ideas are amazing. Thank you! I have a full new bottle of meadowfoam so I might try that recipe first but a firmer bar sounds really nice. I’m using the Calendula and loving it at just 4 1/2 weeks old but I can break it in half with my hands. But we LOVE it. Thanks for all the wonderful recipes. oxoxo

    • Annie R says:

      Jan I stayed with your original recipe and took the soap out of the mold tonight. That is a super soft bar. I like the idea of the meadowfoam helping with soap shelf like. I also have quite alot of mango butter so would it work if I tried this recipe ?? You are the expert :)

      48% olive oil
      26 % coconut oil
      8 % Apricot Kernel Oil
      8 % Meadowfoam
      10% mango butter

    • Hi Annie R! Yes, the calendula and other high-olive oil soaps will take several extra weeks (and sometimes a couple months) to harden. Then it should be a lot firmer! :) Happy you like the recipes!

  19. Louise says:

    Hi Jan,
    Love the questions and your answers. It’s so interesting and educational. I’ve never made soap, but have always wanted to and now is my time! Can I do this one as a first timer? How do you measure the quantities, by weight or volume? I’m gearing up to get my first set of equipment and supplies. How do you recommend I do this? Online and/or craft shops? Any particular hints you can add for me? Thanks!

  20. Annie R says:

    I love your calendula recipe Jan, We are using it every night and I can’t wait to feel that peppermint tingle from the garden mint soap. I’ve started to help my cure with our portable DE-humidifier. I’ve been keeping it on in my curing area several hours a day the first week of cure. This seems to be really helping these palm free soaps. I have 4 different batches curing like that at the moment. This is so much fun. And your recipes started it all. :)

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